RUNNING THE LA-ULTRA 222 MY STORY

Introduction

1. La ultra (La - high mountain pass) is unlike any-other ultra-marathon conducted in the country. The difficulty of distance is compounded by strict cut-offs; altitude ranging between 10,000 to 17,700 ft; temperature ranging between -10oC to +40oC; barren and windy topography of Leh and oxygen levels dropping to less 50%. The race when started in 2010, was considered impossible. However, over a period of time and with participation of elite ultra-runners, human spirit has conquered all the odds. Footprints of athletes have inscribed inspiring stories of human endurance and will power over the passes of Khardung-La, Wari-La and Tanglang-La. The race evolved to varying distances viz. 111 km, 222 km and 333 km crossing one, two and three high mountain passes respectively. In Xth edition this year, the organisers outdid themselves by introducing seemingly impossible distance of 555 km through five passes along with a 55 km run. The race has thus earned the distinction of being one of the cruelest races in world and I was intrigued by it since I was introduced to this race a few years back. The aim of this write-up is not to extol my achievement. The idea is to recount the support, guidance and confidence of my family and friends which enabled me to reach the finish line.

My Quest

2. After completing the qualifying race, Gharwal run (74 km from Dehradun to Danaulti), I was picked to be part of Indian Naval team for 111 km format of the race for 2018 edition. Being part of this team provided fresh insight into the game of high altitude endurance running. The senior athletes viz. Capt Wadhwa and Cdr Sunil Handa meticulously planned the acclimatisation schedule and advised each runner on strengths and weaknesses. Consequently, the team outperformed and I also had a dream run completing 111 km in 15:52 hrs at sixth position. However, far from being satisfied, the finish fueled my desire for the next level. I ran a few more races, but the more I ran, more 222 km at La- ultra became enticing and irresistible. Therefore, with encouragement from friends and family, I decided to attempt 222 km in La-Ultra 2019. Unlike last few editions, the Indian Navy was not sending a team for 2019 edition. However, Capt Animesh Nagar, the Cd Sports Officer at HQENC had confidence and deputed me for 222 km with Lt Cdr Abhinav Jha as the crew. On 04 Aug 19, trained on self-modeled and self-administered regime, when I landed at Leh, my mind was a mix of apprehension in the eyes of my parents and enthusiasm in the eyes of my children during farewell. However, I resolved to do the best that I could and leave the rest to mighty Himalayas.

Acclimatisation

3. “Don't be Gama in the land of Lama” says the first sign board on the road to Khardung-La. Notwithstanding, I took into cognisance my fair amount of experience at high altitude and prolonged exposure to in excess of 17,000 ft during Advanced Mountaineering Course in May 19 to deviate from the acclimatisation schedule and capitalize on the time available at Leh. Less than 24 hrs at Leh, I went for a 10 km run. The physiological parameters viz, SPO2, Heart rate and BP recorded thereafter encouraged me to push the envelope further. I met legendary runner Mathew Maday (running 555 km) and his girlfriend Cassendra (running 333 km). They were amiable athletes and I found that training together was enjoyable and enriching. Both repeatedly advised me to try trekking poles for climbing up the passes. A suggestion I ignored and later regretted.

4. The focus during this period was to spend enough time at race altitude; planing nutrition, hydration, sleep and weather; and be well rested at start line. I was driven around on a hired scooter by Abhinav from hotel to training area and back. This saved crucial time and made training focused and effective. The decision to spend two nights at the beautiful Pangong Tso proved crucial. We spent almost 48 hrs at 14,500 ft and were rejuvenated by the touristy sojourn where we also spent time taking selfies with Marmots and making cairns at Spagmik.

5. The schedule I followed till departure to Nubra for race on 16 Aug 18 is as follows:-

05 Aug

0600-0700 h: 10 km run from Changspa road to Hall of fame and back to ascertainacclimatisation.

2000-2200 h: 10 repsof stairs to red Maitrya temple at VO2 max to ascertain fitness at high altitude.

06 Aug

0600-0700 h: Pranayam.

1500-1700 h: 20 kmon road from Spituk to Karu at race pace.

07 Aug

0600-0700 h: Easy walk 5 km.

1130-1330 h: 25 km downhill runfrom Khardung-La towards Leh. This was the first exposure tomax race altitude.

1500 h: Attended race briefing followed by bib distribution at community hall.

1900-2030 h: 14 km easy run from Shanti-Stupa to Ganglas and back.

08 Aug

1830-2300 h: 28 km run from South Pullu to Khardung-La top and back at race pace. This was second exposure to max race altitude.

09 Aug

2230-0030 h: ran 18 km in loop onn Khardung-La road at 14000 ft admist heavy rain. Temperatures reached sub-zero. This experience came handy during the race.

10 Aug

2300-0030h: Ran 12 km around South Pull at 15000ft. We were forced to terminate because of rains.

11 Aug

1900-2100 h: 12 km run on Khardung-La road.

12 Aug

0600-0700: 10 km run on Kharding-La road.

1000- 1800h: Departed for Pangong Tso (14,500 ft) spending 45 minutes at Chang-La.

13 Aug

0930-1245 h: Climbed a nearby feature to gain height (16,500 ft)

1915-2015 h: Easy run 8 km.

14 Aug

Traveled back to Leh via Chang-La (17,300 ft) and rested.

15 Aug

Rest day. Bought supplies and attended safety briefing at 1500 h at community hall.

The Huddle

6. “If you get 10 hours to cut a tree, spend first eight grinding the axe”. With grinding part done, on 16 Aug 19, the runners and their crews assembled at Goba guest house for departure to Nubra valley. The race was to start at 1800h on 17 Aug from Lakzung after which crew members, if at Nubra, would be transported to Leh. The runners in 222, 333 and 555 category were to be supported by individual crew and dedicated vehicle after 87 km mark at South Pullu. Abhinav decided to stay back at Leh and be at North Pullu at 0700h on 18 Aug so as to be better equipped and rested. Notwithstanding, he too came to Goba to bid fare-well and be part of the huddle. Although some of us had met before, but over a period of next few days I met some outstanding world class athletes. I chatted up Lukaz (555, Poland), Jason (555, Australia), Praveen (555, India), Ashish (555, India), Nishchint (333, India) Peter (222, Singapore), Jasmine (222, USA), Gregor (222, Poland) Shikha (222, India) in addition to Sandeep (222, India) and Munir (222, India) with whom I had run earlier. The weather forecast for next three days, gloomy with prediction of precipitation and freezing temperatures, was part of most discussions. We boarded the buses at 1030h and reached our cottages at Nubra by 1630h. The dinner was simple and nutritious. After which people quietly slipped into their beds.

7. The morning of the race day was spent chatting, eating, discussing weather and startergising run. The elites like Jason, Mathew, Lukaz, Ashish and Praveen were relaxed. However, commoners most of 111 and 222 runners including me were anxious about weather. It was predicted to rain/ snow and temperatures were expected to drop to -10oC. I revised the list of items in drop bag, went over my clothing/ hydration/ nutrition plan and submitted the drop bag at 0930 h. I had to plan my run only till 87 km. Having meticulous runner like Abhinav as crew thereafter was a big relief. Mr Wangchuk, owner of the resort was amiable host and was assuaging our fears with warm soup and cups of tea. With medical-check and photography done, we had early lunch. After tea-pakora at 1600, we boarded buses for the start point – the Prayer wheel of Lakzung at 11,000 ft. The entire village had turned up to wish us luck. The villagers offered us tea and biscuits which were accepted with gratitude. The village head and priests offered prayers. Soon it was time for the race to begin.

Beginning

8. On 17 Aug 19 at 1800h when the race started, overcast skies and slight precipitation had brought a little chill in the air. Although bursting with excitement, I reminded myself to conserve and sticking to the plan started at 6:15 to 6:30 pace. Within 15 minutes, I found running besides Mathew, Lukaz and Jason. Only Manish (222, India), Dorjay and Stanzin (Ladakhi runners of 111 category) were ahead of our pack. By the time we reached first cut-off slated at Wari-La Fork (21.7 km mark), it was 2015 h. The temperature was around +10oC, wind had picked up and the drizzle was steady. I took advantage of the drop bag, spent additional two minutes to change the t-shirt and pulled up a wind-cheater. Balakrishna (111, India) had overtaken me in the meanwhile. However, this race is not about who goes fastest. it was about who slows down the least. The night was dark, the air was getting colder and now the road was a steady incline. We all kept putting one foot after the other and by the time I reached Khradung village (40.7 km) at 2230, I had gained lead on Balakrishna and Mathew to join Lukaz. A hot soup and great stretch by Dr Tisha and by 2245 we were up again on the road, the rain was now more persistent and visibility reduced further. Lukaz was in great shape running in only a short and T-shirt covered by a rain cape but he slowed down. After sometime, I started gaining on a red light and 5 km before North Pullu, I joined Jason who was also slowing down.

Snow, Cold and Altitude (Nightmare at Khardung-La)

9. The altitude was close to 15000 ft was playing god and every step required double the effort. Though, I was feeling strong, considering known presence of dog-packs around Army Det at North Pull and low visibility, I chose to be safe and decided to run with Jason. By the time we reached North Pullu (57 km/ 15,540ft) it was 18 Aug 0115 h. The rain turned into steady snow fall and temperature was plummeting every minute. By this time the shoes were also wet and the drop bag was pulled out to affect a complete change of clothing. As our tomato soup was readied, Mathew also came in. He insisted that I use his down-jacket, instead of my soft shell. We all rested there for 15 minutes warming/ streching and started out by 0130 h. Soon we found ourselves walking in a foot deep fresh snow. It was like negotiating sandy beach in sub-zero temperatures having 10 deg steady elevation with mouth and nose gagged. The next 16 km appeared, at that time, to be the hardest part of the race. Notwithstanding, the three of us ploughed on and took almost three hours to cover this distance. A kilometer short of Khardung-La top, the crew vans were sighted struggling with snow and putting on chains to the tyres. By the time I reached K top, clouds opened up and visibility improved. The young Army Officer and Jawans at the post urged me to get into their hut and share tea which I gratefully accepted. They also told me that the Ladakhi boys (Dorjay and Stanzin) were approximately 10 minutes ahead of me. Infused with tea, I started descent. I was still above 17,000 ft and AMS was still a distinct possibility. I reminded myself to be patient and slow down.

A Lesson in Patience

10. On 18 Aug at 0700h when I reached South Pullu, I was a few minutes behind Dorjay and Stanzin. My crew should have been waiting for me. But Abhinav was not there. After removing layers, putting on sun-screen and having a cup of warm coffee, I started at 0710h, a minute after the Ladakhi boys. Determined to beat them to 111 finish. I had barely run 100 m, when Abhinav came running and gave me a much required warm hug. He had spent an hour at a traffic-jam near Leh. My worries were all gone as my focus was to be only on the road now. Hydration, nutrition, rest, pacing, clothing and everything else was to be regulated by Abhinav and I trusted him explicitly on that account. We discussed our situation and decided to be patient. A deliberate call was taken not to chase the 111 runners to Shanti-Stupa. Conserving for the remaining 111 km after Shanti Stupa was a priority. The patience shown here paid rich dividends later. So with improved conditions, Abhinav by my side and running conservatively, I reached Shanti Stupa at 1006h on 18 Aug.

11. After a parikarima around the Stupa, tea and biscuit at check point and exchanging notes with Chetan, we decided to head to Goba guest house, the resting point. We reached there at 1100 h. Abhinav treated me like a baby. He ran around for hotwater, set out my change of clothes, got me food and ensured I overcame excitement and slept for an hour. Rested and refreshed, I told Abhinav that I can run alone for sometime and that he should rest and join me after an hour. At 1230h when I started from Goba, Jason had arrived and was resting. I met Jasmine and Sandeep who had been pulled out of race and felt sorry for them because they were good athletes and fine human beings. It was much later that I came to know that exceptionally adverse conditions at Khardung-La had claimed the race of many athletes including that of Lukaz and Gregor. All possible challenges of nature acting in tandem with the distance compounded the difficulties to a very high level in this world class race.

The valley of Leh

12. Rejuvenated, with music in my ears, I set out to cross the valley of Leh, towards the guest house of Sakti (173 km, 12,500 ft). Although, I had requested Abinav to rest, he soon joined me on the road and by 1345 we had crossed Spituk bridge. Cloudy skies, mild chill in the air and gentle slopes; any-other day, it would have been an enjoyable run. But not after 120 odd kilometers with every bone aching. Notwithstanding the odds, we moved on. Abhinav dutifully providing me warm water, food and motivation through out. The distances in a barren valley, having straight roads and with no end in sight seem impossible. At 140 km mark, the race director, Dr Rajat, stopped whilst crossing us on his way to Sakti to encourage me. We discussed the race and I was sad to note that except Munir, Manish, Shikha and self, all 222 runners have dropped out. As we continued further, I was getting hungry and wanted some solid food and developed a craving for Masala-Chai. Abhinav scooted ahead to Karu market and got some bread-omelette and masala chai which I enjoyed thoroughly on the roadside. Moving further we crossed the Karu bridge and reached 158 km mark at 1900h.

13. As the sun set once again, we donned reflective vests and head lamps and continued putting one step after other. Just short of Sakti, I took a wrong road towards a Military base. Realising my mistake, I quickly retraced my steps and met with the crew car. At 2100h we reached the rest house at Sakti. Once again Abhinav swung into action, arranged hot food, pulled out change of clothes and ensured that the time not spent moving was spent on the back. I called-up home and spoke to my family. They were up to date with my progress and wished me luck. After an hour’s break, when I was ready to move once again, Mathew reached Sakti. We exchanged greetings and wished each other luck and once again requesting Abhinav to rest a while started toward Wari-La for an ascent of 5,000 ft over a distance of 29 km. Abhinav once again asked me if I wanted him to arrange a pair of trekking poles. To which my reply was a categorical no. This decision was to come back to haunt me sooner than later.

Worries at Wari-La

14. At 2200h, after covering 173km with 28 hrs elapsed, I started my ascent of wari-La on a cold and frosty night. Abhinav estimated that that the remaining 49 km can be easily covered in seven hours and the race can be completed in 36 hours. Alas, the mountain gods didn't agree. Abhinav had very little rest and crew van joined me on the road little after I had covered 06 km. Soon a core crew van also joined us to oversee our progress. Drinking the water heated on butane cylinder, occasionally munching something or other and being paced and encouraged by crew, I maintained a steady pace. The sky was overcast but it did not rain or snow. However, proximity to Chang-La pass keeps wind speeds high and temperatures exceptionally low on Wari-La.

15. 19 Aug came with fresh challenges and tribulations. We were 10 km short of Wari-La, when we encountered soft snow on the road which could be negotiated with some difficulty. However, approximately 5.5 km short of the summit, at approxiately 0130h, the drivers of crew vans expressed inability to move further owing to Verglass (sheet of frozen hard ice) on the road. This made our situation particularly precarious. There was no alternative but to negotiate these conditions in pitch dark night. Often slipping and falling, holding on to the crew I moved on negotiating the path at an agonizingly slow pace. The decision to not have trekking poles came haunting back to me for rest of the night. Walking on the Verglas was exhausting both physically and mentally. By the time we reached the designated point, a BRO yellow board, it was already 0530 h and every ounce of strength was drained from my already spent-out body. I should have carried trekking poles, should have changed into my waterproof trekking boots, could have asked the organisers to reconsider the race route; in the hindsight I am wiser. It took me seven hours to cover these 11 km and drained every ounce of energy from my body. It was clear by now that I will not able to complete the race in the timeline I had set for myself. Be that it may be, supported by my team I continued and by 0830 h was at the point where the crew vans were waiting for us.

The Home Run

16. Jyotsana, Chetan and Dr Tisha almost had a party going at 207 km mark. I was encouraged, offered chocolate cake and given a massage. I thanked everybody profusely for their support and took the road again to finish the remaining 15 km. Exhausted, sleep deprived and battered by Wari-La, the progress was excruciatingly slow even downslope. Apart from a piece of cake, I had not had anything solid for last 12 hours and was finding energy in warm water being doled out from my crew van. Steady intake of electrolyte and high energy food had thrown my digestive system out of order and caused much flatulence. I sat behind rocks on the roadside to attend nature's call. It was this or just sitting on haunches, I felt much better. On the way down I met Mathew, Jason, Munir, Cassendra, Ashish, Praveen, Shika and the runners of 55 km edition moving up the Wari-La. I was happy for them, as with daybreak and rise of temperature, conditions at Wari-La were likely to improve.

17. Exchanging pleasantries, encouraging and prodding others to negotiate one bend at a time, I continued. Finally, the never ending last few miles also came to a pass. At 114h on 19 Aug 19, taking 41 h 48min, with more than six hours to spare, I became the first runner in 2019 edition of La-ultra to cross the finish line of 222 km. I hugged my crew, thanked the organising staff, offered a prayer to mighty mountain passes and humbly accepted by finisher’s trophy. The race had humbled and at the same time strengthened me. I flew back next day to reach home at 1800h on 20 Aug and was embarrassed and overwhelmed by the congratulatory gathering of family and friends waiting for me.

Reminisce

18. Later, I was told that I was the only runner in 222 category to finish the race. All runners in 333 category had pulled out and only Mathew, Jason, Ashish could finish 555. Extreme weather at Khardung-La and Wari-La had laid claim to the dreams of most participants. At the end of it all, I had mixed feelings. I was happy to have finished it with all those odds but I was sorry for the magnificent runners who could not complete. I was also cross at myself for not achieving the time we had set out for. But overall, it was an excellent learning experience. The important take-aways for extreme ultra running are equally relevant to life:-

(a) Oversight can cost you dear. Not getting trekking poles was an avoidable and expensive mistake.

(b) More than your efforts, the success is dependent on having reliable and dedicated crew and friends. Dedication of Abhinav to my cause and confidence of Capt Animesh Nagar deserve majority credit for the success.

(c) Your family is your strength. I am thankful to my wife and children for always encouraging me. The overnight runs and strict nutrition schedules would not have been possible without their support. I am also thankful to my parents for inculcating the spirit of adventure in me.

(d) As is in life, slow and steady wins the race. It is important to ascertain your complete potential and space it out evenly for the race.

(e) Patience pays. Letting go of ambition for 111 finish line and overcoming excitement to rest at Goba, helped me to complete the remaining distance.

(f) Bigger challenges guarantee greater joys. The Race Director Dr. Rajat Chauhan has painstakingly put together a formidable challenge and every year ensures outstanding logistics, medical and logistics support to enable the runners get that high.

(g) Life is full of unexpected challenges. Negotiating unexpected and unprecedented conditions will always remind me to carry on with a smile.

(h) Last but not the least, the essence of La-Ultra – Failing is not a crime, Lack of Effort is.

What Next

19. And at the end of it – the million dollar question. Will I be back in Leh for another edition of La-Ultra? Will I be attempting a longer distance or the same distance? Well, the call of Himalayas is loud and clear and it appeals to my soul. Will I answer the call? Only time will tell.

------Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hum-----